San Francisco · USA » Restaurants (118)

240 California St., San Francisco, USA

Locations and owners have changed more than once since this old-timer started as a coffee stand on the waterfront in 1849, but the crowds keep coming. Generations of regulars advise that simple sautés and panfries are the best choices, or cioppino during crab season (October to May), Pacific halibut in season (January to May), and old-fashioned house-made tartar sauce anytime. There's counter seating, a few tables, and private booths (complete with a bell to summon the waiter), and a long line at noon is inevitable. The crusty, white-coated waiters are a throwback to another time, while the old-school bartenders serve up martinis as good as the mollusks. Reservations not accepted. MC, V. Closed Sun.