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106 E. 57th St., New York, USA

Chef Laurent Tourondel sets a new steak house standard in this classy space decked out in beige and suede and resined black tables. The no-muss, no-fuss menu is nonetheless large, and so are the portions of supple crab cakes and luscious ruby tuna tartare. As soon as you're settled, puffy Parmesan popovers arrive still steaming. A veal chop is crusted with rosemary and Parmesan, which imbue the veal with more flavor than veal ever has. The quintessential BLT includes Kobe beef, foie gras, bacon, and tomato in a split ciabatta. Sides and desserts are all superior. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Subway: 4, 5, 6, N, R to 59th St.