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246 N. Cañon Dr., Beverly Hills, USA

As a wave of new steak houses continues to hit health-conscious L.A., this Arizona import is proving to be a popular alternative to the old standbys. Starters include a shrimp cocktail, dramatically presented in a cloud of dry ice and the massive steaks, swimming in butter and served on the bone for maximum flavor. The downstairs dining room is appropriately sleek and studied, but would-be Rat Packers and younger pals let loose at a piano bar upstairs. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.