Madrid · Europe » Travel Tips

Overview

After shifting east from its founding high ground at the Moorish ramparts next to the Catedral de la Almudena and the Palacio Real, Madrid and Spain's kilometer zero now radiates out from La Puerta del Sol, the transportation hub where all buses and subways converge. La Castellana and the Paseos de Recoletos and del Prado form the city's north-south spinal column; El Parque del Retiro to the east and the Campo del Moro west of the Palacio Real form the east-west limits. The old part of town, the part you can explore on foot, lies between these two parks, extending north to the Glorieta de Bilbao and south to the Glorieta de Embajadores. The pocket bounded to the north and south by Plaza Mayor and Puerta de Moros and, on the east and west, by Plaza de Oriente and Plaza de Santa Ana is the epicenter of old Madrid, and the Barrio de Salamanca to the north of the Retiro and Chamberí north of the Glorieta de Bilbao are late-19th-century grids of city blocks.

By Bike

Bicycle travel in Madrid is notably absent, perhaps because traffic is too intense or because bicycles don't make enough noise to stand out from the rest of the din. In any case, it's not a good idea.

By Bus

Red city buses run from about 6 AM to midnight and cost EUR1.15 per ride. After midnight, buses called búhos ("night owls") run out to the suburbs from Plaza de Cibeles for the same price. Signs at every stop list all other stops by street name, but they're hard to comprehend if you don't know the city well. Pick up a free route map from EMT kiosks on the Plaza de Cibeles or the Puerta del Sol, where you can also buy a 10-ride ticket called a Metrobus (EUR5.80) that's also valid for the metro. If you speak Spanish, call for information (tel. 902/507850). Drivers will generally make change for anything up to a EUR10 note. If you've bought a 10-ride ticket, step just behind the driver and insert it in the ticket-punching machine until the mechanism rings.

By Metro

The metro is quick, frequent, and, at EUR1.15 no matter how far you travel, cheap. Even cheaper is the 10-ride Metrobus ticket, or billete de diez, which costs EUR5.80, is also valid for buses, and is accepted by automatic turnstiles (lines at ticket booths can be long). The system is open from 6 AM to 1:30 AM, though a few entrances close earlier. There are 10 metro lines, and system maps in stations detail their color-coded routes. Note the end station of the line you need, and follow signs to the correct corridor. Exits are marked salida.

By Car

Felipe II made Madrid the capital of Spain because it was at the very center of his peninsular domains, and to this day many of the nation's highways radiate from Madrid like the spokes of a wheel. Originating at Kilometer 0 -- marked by a brass plaque on the sidewalk of the Puerta del Sol -- these highways include the A6 (Segovia, Salamanca, Galicia); A1 (Burgos and the Basque Country); the A2 (Guadalajara, Barcelona, France); the A3 (Cuenca, Valencia, the Mediterranean coast); the A4 (Aranjuez, La Mancha, Granada, Seville); the A42 (Toledo); and the A5 (Talavera de la Reina, Portugal). The city is surrounded by the M30 (the inner ring road), and the M40 and M50 (the outer ring roads), from which most of these highways are easily picked up. To fight the heavy traffic leaving and getting into Madrid, the government set up an infrastructure plan that includes radial toll highways (marked R1, R2, R3, R4, and R5) that bypass the major highways by 50-60 kilometers, as well as the A41, a new toll highway connecting Madrid and Toledo. These options are worth considering, especially if you're driving on a summer weekend or a holiday.

Driving in Madrid is best avoided. Parking is nightmarish, traffic is heavy almost all the time, and the city's daredevil drivers can be frightening. August is an exception; the streets are then largely emptied by the mass exodus of Madrileños on vacation.

Car Rental

Nearly every international agency is represented in Madrid, whether in town or at Barajas Airport. It's best to reserve a car before you arrive in Spain.

By Taxi

Taxis are a good deal in Madrid. They work under three different tariff schemes. Tariff 1 is valid in the city center from 6 AM to 10 PM; meters start at EUR1.65. Supplemental charges include EUR4.20 to or from the airport, and EUR2.20 from bus and train stations. Tariff 2 is from 10 PM to 6 AM in the city center (and from 6 AM to 10 PM in the suburbs). During this period the meter runs faster and charges more per kilometer. Tariff 3 runs at night beyond the city limits. You'll find all tariffs listed on the taxi window.

Taxi stands are numerous, and taxis are easily hailed in the street -- except when it rains, at which point they're exceedingly hard to come by. Available cabs display a libre sign during the day, a green light at night. Spaniards do not tip cabbies, but if you're inspired, EUR.50 is about right for shorter rides; you can go as high as 10% for a trip to the airport. You can call a cab through Tele-Taxi, Radioteléfono Taxi, or Radio Taxi Gremial.

Taxis & Shuttles

Radio Taxi Gremial (PHONE: 91/447-5180). Radioteléfono Taxi (PHONE: 91/547-8200). Tele-Taxi (PHONE: 91/371-2131).