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Whether gazing at the city's sprawling skyline from the 17th-story window of a high-rise hotel or strolling in the shadows of looming concrete edifices, one wistfully dreams of what Caracas might have been like had its sudden growth spurt occurred during any other architectural moment than the 1970s. Reckless and desperate in its quest for modernity, Caracas, with a few notable exceptions, sacrificed elegance and grace for the unbridled visual of its charmless urban center.
What redeems Caracas is the Caraqueños themselves: a diverse, young, and lively population that colors the grimy streets of the capital with laughter, music, and unrestrained enthusiasm. The sophisticated tastes of the nearly 5 million inhabitants demand the endless parades of boutiques and fine restaurants that crowd commercial areas. The streets of the upscale Las Mercedes neighborhood, called London, Paris, and Madrid, are almost as chic as their namesakes. In the gargantuan cultural center of Bellas Artes, museums and concert halls erupt with the artistic accomplishments of Venezuela's past and present. Hip, fast-paced, and altogether cosmopolitan, Caraqueños still manage to retain a warmth and amiability you may not expect to encounter in a city this vast.
Although Caracas is a rambling metropolis, its places of interest can be explored comfortably in a day or two. Interesting museums and cultural centers, lively bars, and refined dining establishments are all connected by the city's clean, efficient subway system. The weather, too, facilitates exploring: At 3,000 ft above sea level, Caracas enjoys one of the world's most agreeable climates, with an average daily temperature of 24°C (75°F).
Be advised, however, that Caracas well deserves its reputation as a dangerous city. The main tourist areas are generally safe during the day, but always be on your guard. Even residents do not go out alone in most neighborhoods after 9 PM, when muggings and other violent crimes are shockingly frequent. Taxis are the safest means of transportation after dark.
Copyright © 2009 by Fodor's Travel, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved.