Bangkok · Asia

Overview

Print

• Send to a friend
• RSS
• Menéame
• del.icio.us
• Digg
• Google

There are two Bangkoks, the ancient soul of Thailand with its long and fascinating history and the frantic modern metropolis that embraces the latest trends both Eastern and Western. The two blend together remarkably well -- even the most jarring juxtapositions of old and new will start to make sense after a few days, and shrines in front of car dealerships or monks on all manner of public transportation will be sights soon taken for granted.

Bangkok is not only the biggest city in Thailand, but also the most mesmerizing, with some of the country''s most beautiful temples and shrines. Sunset at Wat Arun on the river is downright humbling, and even people with no interest in history will be impressed with the Grand Palace. The city''s energy is palpable, especially at night, when traffic opens up a bit, its famous markets get going, and everything seems lit up from its proudest monuments to its seediest streets.

While tourism is huge in Bangkok, the city''s identity and its economy is not as dependent on it as some other places in the region. This can be a good thing for visitors because they get to experience a real city -- with all its problems and advantages -- not a theme park. The Grand Palace may be a world-class attraction, but it''s not there for tourism; it''s Bangkok''s most revered and often-visited site, and Thais enter for free.

That''s not to say Bangkok is perfect. There''s much to criticize about this city of 12 million people (nearly one-fifth of Thailand''s total population). It''s hot and humid and the pollution is so bad, traffic cops often wear gas masks to protect themselves from the fumes. But other problems are improving, the canals (klongs)are slowly being cleaned, the number of trees has dramatically increased and more green areas have been set aside.

The biggest improvements to the city have been the Skytrain, which opened in 1999, and the subway, which opened in 2004. Coupled with the river express boats, moving around most parts of Bangkok has become relatively easy. While traffic continues to be nightmarish, the Skytrain breezes people along, high above that gridlock. The Skytrain and subway also help organize the city, which, with its multiple city centers, can be rather confusing.

Perhaps a bigger critical issue is that a disproportionate amount of Thailand''s wealth is in Bangkok. It''s the financial, business, and entertainment capital of the country, as well as its government center. It''s like Washington D.C., New York, and Los Angeles wrapped into one. In many respects is has grown apart from the rest of the country. The national government often acts like a city administration dealing with city development issues while the country at large can appear neglected. The city''s wealth speaks, and the city residents demand attention. As much of the country keeps its traditions, Bangkok seems more brash in abandoning them. Some social critics say in Thailand people revere the Buddha, but in Bangkok they worship the Baht.

Thais call their capital Krung Thep, which means "City of Angels." The full name actually means a bit more than that and has 280 letters or so, depending on the translation. The city went through several name changes until 1972 when a new government administration named it the first two words of the original name, Krungthep Mahanakhon. King Rama I named the original city after founding the capital in 1782.Rama I also founded the Royal House of Chakri, under which the present monarch, King Bhumibol Adulyadej, is the ninth king. Rama I moved the capital across the Chao Phraya River from Thonburi because he felt "the village of the wild plum trees, " as he called Bangkok, would be easier to defend against possible Burmese attacks from here. Rama I set out to build a city as beautiful as the old capital of Ayutthaya was before it was sacked by the Burmese in 1767.

Though some may contend that Bangkok''s beauty has faded in the face of so much concrete, there certainly is no shortage of things to marvel at -- from the requisite temples to fierce Thai boxing matches to the labyrinthine streets of the older neighborhoods to the sudden shift of congested streets into a flower market. You may not fall in love with Bangkok, but you''ll never forget it.