Athens · Europe

Overview

In Greece, all roads lead to Athens, the capital city that is both the birthplace of Western civilization and a bustling boomtown that re-created itself for the Olympic Games in 2004. Athenians take the juxtaposition of ancient splendor and cacophonous modernity with good-natured appreciation, and you would be wise to do likewise.

Raise your eyes nearly anywhere and you're likely to be stopped in your tracks by the sight of the Acropolis, where Pericles rose to the heights of power and creative achievement, with the construction of the Parthenon and Propylaea. After a time-trip to the golden age of Greece, explore modern Athens's patchwork of neighborhoods to get a sense of the history of this gregarious city, its people, and what lies beyond the ubiquitous modern concrete facades. Take in a twilight view from Athenians' favorite "violet-crowned" aerie, Mt. Lycabettus, and drink in the twinkling lights of the metropolis that is home to more than 4 million souls, still growing and still counting.

To leave the whirl of cars behind, stroll through the 19th-century Plaka district, where pastel-hue houses and vestiges of an earlier, simpler life keep beloved traditions intact. Pay a call on the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Syntagma Square -- if you catch the changing of the Evzone Guard here, the sight of a soldier in 19th-century ceremonial garb parading in front of a funeral oration by Pericles will put the many layers of Athens perfectly in perspective.

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