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Side Trip to Chinchón

54 km (33 mi) southeast of Madrid

A true Castilian town, the picturesque village of Chinchón seems a good four centuries removed. It makes an ideal day trip, especially if you save time for lunch at one of its many rustic restaurants; the only problem is that swarms of Madrileños have the same idea, so it's often hard to get a table at lunchtime on weekends.

The high point of Chinchón is its charming Plaza Mayor, an uneven circle of ancient three- and four-story houses embellished with wooden balconies resting on granite columns. It's something like an open-air Elizabethan theater, but with a Spanish flavor -- in fact, the entire plaza is converted to a bullring from time to time, with temporary bleachers erected in the center and seats on the privately owned balconies rented out for splendid views. (Tickets for these rare fights are hard to come by.)

The commanding Iglesia de la Asunción (Church of the Assumption), overlooking the plaza, is known for its Goya mural, The Assumption of the Virgin.

Along the C300 near the N-III highway, you'll pass through the Valle del Jarama, scene of one of the bloodiest battles of the Spanish civil war. American volunteers in the Abraham Lincoln Brigade, which fought with the democratically elected Spanish Republican government against Franco's military insurgency, were mauled here in a baptism of fire. Folk singer Pete Seeger immortalized the battle with "There's a valley in Spain called Jarama?" The trenches are still visible, and bits of rusty military hardware can still be found in the fields.

Where to Eat

The town's arcaded plaza is ringed by charming balconied restaurants serving hearty Castilian fare, particularly roasts and charcoal-grilled meat. Wherever you dine, try the local anís, a licorice-flavor spirit; and if you come to Chinchón in April, look for merriment occasioned by the Fiesta del Anís y del Vino (Anise and Wine Festival).

On winter weekends, Madrileños come in droves for the superb cocido, garlic soup, suckling pig, and roasted lamb at the Parador de Chinchón (Av. Generalísimo 1, Chinchón, Spain. PHONE: 91/894-0836).

Mesón de la Virreina (Plaza Mayor 28, Chinchón, Spain. PHONE: 91/894-0015), on the square's northeast corner, is a perfect perch for sipping gazpacho or a glass of Chinchón anís.

Call ahead for a table at Café de la Iberia (Plaza Mayor 17, Chinchón, Spain. PHONE: 91/894-0998), which has a much-in-demand balcony overlooking the plaza as well as a cozy interior.

Mesón Las Cuevas del Vino (Benito Hortelano 13, Chinchón, Spain. PHONE: 91/894-0285) is a rambling tavern with roaring fireplaces and immense antique wine and olive oil amphoras scattered around a giant olive press.

An affordable option is El Rincón de Pedro (Jose Antonio 30, Chinchón, Spain. PHONE: 91/893-5002), which has an inexpensive daily fixed-price lunch menu, and also serves tapas and sandwiches.